In a secret to no one, I love Scotland. I moved here five years ago and I fall a little more in love with this country every day. It’s not only beautiful, but it’s kind and humble. Full of adventures with no competitions.
Here are some things I’ve told visiting friends and family over the years. I live and know Edinburgh best, so these recommendations will be slightly skewed to the lower east side of Scotland.
There is a wrong time to visit.
Please, don’t come in January or February. I don’t even recommend coming in March either. It’s cold, dark and wet. I want Scotland to keep it’s stellar reputation abroad, and if you come during these months, you’re not going to leave with five stars. Just leave that time for the locals to suck it up (they’re rewarded later, don’t worry).
*April is full of lovely spring flowers, while May and June are usually the warmest, driest and longest months in Scotland. June is my particular favorite - almost 20 hour days! In fact, we keep promising to ban all travel in the month of June because Scotland shines at its best then.
July is nice, but I’m always a little disappointed at the cloud cover and rain that it brings. August is amazing because of the festivals that overtake the whole town (you can read more on that here). Some locals slag it off, but I genuinely think it’s such an inspiring and fun time in Edinburgh. If you love peak fall, September and October are for you (though October is a little more rainy than September). The leaves take months to change (a real change from the US 2-week fall in NYC or the midwest). November and December are dark - daylight creeps down to only about 6-7 hours a day - but the whole city glitters and glistens in Christmas lights and markets, and Hogmanay celebrations.
There are so many difference places to visit in Scotland.
The whole of Scotland is very regionalised. There are different dialects - even different languages! - in as little as a 10 mile radius.
A cabbie once told me the art is made in Glasgow but sold in Edinburgh, and I think that might be the best metaphor I’ve heard about the difference between the two largest Scottish cities. **If you want art, music, shopping, places that are a bit more trendy or cool, visit Glasgow. If you want more history, architecture, fine dining, sports, visit Edinburgh.
If you want to see breathtaking mountains and hills, visit Glencoe and the Highlands. If you like whisky and / or long walks / cycles, visit the Cairngorms and the Whisky Trail. If you want to see a place that seems to exude magic, visit Isle of Skye. If you want to see Caribbean sand and waters, visit the Hebrides. If you want to see history from thousands of years ago still remain a bit today, visit the Orkney Islands. If you want to see castles and beautiful farm lands, visit East Lothian. If you want to see rolling hills and learn more about England v Scottish (every day) battles, visit the Borders. If you like smokey whisky, visit Islay. If you like golf, visit St. Andrews or East Lothian.
In my opinion, you can’t go wrong. But, I would do further research to understand a bit more about that region before you go.
Scottish words sound and are a bit different.
Hopefully this also obvious, but Scotland speaks English (as well as Doric and Scottish Gaelic). But, with how regionalised the country is, everyone’s accent will be slightly different. Just in Edinburgh you can tell who went to private school, who grew up in East Lothian, who lived in Morningside, and who moved from Glasgow.
It just means that everyone’s accent differs a bit. But yours will differ to them as well (and yes, Americans, you do have an accent).
Edinburgh is not pronounced as Ed-in-burg or Ed-in-bor-row. It’s pronounced Ed-in-burr-a or Ed-in-bra.
Some helpful Scots words to know: aye (yes), nae bother (no problem), wee (little), loch (lake), dinnae fash (don’t worry), ben (mountain), glen (valley), dram (measure of whisky), faff (take time to sort something), ken (know), scran (food), blether (long chat), mingin’ (not very nice), clarty (dirty).
Scotland is a great place to go if you are active.
I’m not sure a flat piece of land actually exists in Scotland. There are of course tour companies to see the country by car or bus, but be prepared to do a fair bit of walking up and down hills, stairs and on cobblestones within cities.
Outside of cities, it’s an even better place for active people. There are cycle paths throughout the country, and it is genuinely safe to cycle in the country and city.
One of my favorite things is wild camping, though my scale of ‘wild’ errs on the side that’s still closeish to the car. Wild Camping essentially means you can camp anywhere and not get in trouble. I've seen tents pitched in parks here in town for days! It's as simple as that - you can camp wherever. There's some general courtesies though: Some people may have 'No camping' signs, so those are best left to be respected; If you're camping on someone's farm land, it's best to ask for permission first (you'll see this when there are fences everywhere); sheep are fine to camp by, I'd probably avoid other animals though; obviously take your trash, put out fires, etc. There are links online that will highlight best places to wild camp - some require you to trek in, others you can take with a car - so I'd just search depending on where you go. And be open to adjusting your plan on the fly!
There’s also a thing called “Munro Bagging” here. Personally, I haven’t done this yet (but I would like to). Munro’s are 282 Scottish mountains that stand over 3,000ft named after Sir Hugo Monro. “Munro Bagging” is essentially climbing those mountains. Some are easier than others and they appear throughout Scotland.
If you like fishing, you can fish in most lochs and rivers. You’ll need permits for certain place and certain types of fish, but they’re easy to get. You can also hire a guide or a “Gillie” as well.
Be sensitive and understanding to Scotland vs England.
There’s hundreds of years of history between Scotland and England, oftentimes not in Scotland’s favor. That feeling can still exist today as Scotland is often overlooked in all areas by the English, specifically those in southern England. For example, some bank notes say “Bank of Scotland” on them. While they’re legal money across the UK, England oftentimes won’t take them as they don’t see those notes as ‘real money’.
As a tourist, a couple things are helpful to know:
Scottish people are not English, so don’t call them that. It’s very insulting. Scottish and English people are all British people though, so it’s fine to call them “British”.
The debate and vote on Scottish Independence is very personal and still a bit raw for some. I think it’s fine to ask about it in a well-meaning way, but remember that it’s akin to being asked (if you’re American) about your feelings on Trump and / or gun rights (regardless of your position, all topics usually end up in an emotionally charged debate).
There’s a huge difference in day and night across the year.
On the Summer Solstice (20/21 June), the sun will rise at 4:26am and set at 10:02pm in Edinburgh (longer the further north you go). That’s almost 18 hours of direct sun light (almost 20 if you count dawn and dust). On the Winter Solstice (21 December), the sun will rise at 8:42am and set at 15:39pm, which is only about 7 hours of sunlight (less the further north you go).
Most people don’t realise until they’re here, so just plan appropriately (and maybe bring an eye mask if you come in the summer months!).
All of the UK drives on the left side of the road.
This is hopefully not new news to you, but worth remembering. While the trains are great, you will see more and more interesting places in Scotland if you travel by car. You can hire a tour company for specific excursions, but I’d also recommend renting a car.
You can rent a car with a foreign driver’s license. I did a road trip with my mom to Skye and with my dad in Ireland where I was the primary driver before I took my UK driver’s test. It’s honestly fine, you’ll pick it up faster than you think (especially if you’re an American who’s been driving since you were 15!). I would just recommend that you always have a passenger who’s job is to remind you often that it’s the left side. As soon as you get comfortable behind the wheel and the road is empty, you’ll inevitably go back to ‘right side’ driving. The passenger will help remind you. The rental cars also have big ‘Keep Left’ signs inside on your window and the oncoming traffic will also help you.
I would read up on the signs though, as they do differ a bit from American signs. This applies to speed limit signs as well.
Scotland also has a zero tolerance policy with drinking and driving.
Pack for all seasons (within reason).
When I first moved to Scotland, our Director of MBA mentioned several times that we’ll experience all four seasons within a day, and to dress appropriately. I found it very annoying, but it’s true. This is only place where a rain shower has come out of nowhere while it’s sunny. Honestly, it still baffles me.
While you might experience all four seasons in one day, you won’t experience it for long. If it’s sunny and it starts raining, it’ll usually stop in the next 5-10 minutes. You obviously don’t need to pack a winter coat in June, nor do you need shorts in December. Just try to pack and wear layers, and don’t be worried about your hair getting a bit of rain or wind on it.
Google Map places before you go.
In the US, if there are 120 miles between Place A and B, it typically means you’ll reach it in about two hours. In Scotland, if there are 120 miles between Place A and B, it might take you 7 hours and include a ferry ride. Roads aren’t straight, there are many towns between Place A and B that fluctuate the speed limits, and there are a lot of lochs you’ll have to drive around. Just plan ahead of time.
There are so many beaches to visit.
You can visit the beach year round. Even a walk on the beach in the cold with a jacket is so refreshing and restorative.
Some of my favorite beaches around Edinburgh are Portobello Beach, Yellowcraigs and Sea Cliff.
A big past time in Scotland is to go ‘dooking’, which is cold swimming. Some go in just swimsuits, some go in wet suits. Be mindful before you go - read up in rip tides and know your limits.
Some ad hoc things.
If you’ll be around whisky, know the difference between whisky and whiskey. Whisky in Scotland is spelled without an ‘e’. Irish whiskey is not Scotch. American bourbon is not Scotch. Put simply, Scotch has to have three things: made from water in Scotland, aged in a used barrel / cask (oftentimes American Bourbon or Sherry casks) for at least three years, and must be entirely produced and bottled in Scotland.
Scotland is not England, and it’s not Ireland either. I once had a conversation with a US colleague and my Scottish boss, and we were talking about different distilleries in Scotland as the US colleague was planning to visit. He then launched into his love for Jameson and how he was excited to try it when he visited Scotland. I love a Jameson, but as soon as he said that my boss and I looked at each other and silently thought “this conversation is over”.
There is sectarianism that still exists today, especially in football (soccer). It’s gotten better than several decades ago, but there are still sports rivalries that cut deeper than favorite players or colors. In Glasgow, Celtic Football Club is Catholic, while the Rangers Football Club is Protestant. In Edinburgh, Hibs are Catholic, and Hearts are Protestant. “Back in the day” one could identify which side of the line you were on simply by your last name. I find this particularly baffling as I’ve never equated religion to sports. It’s less extreme today and some do support the clubs for other reasons, but in case football comes up in your conversation with locals it’s something to keep in mind.
Brits love a queue (a line). Don’t be rude by going to the front. Wait your turn just like everyone else.
No one cares about your Scottish ancestry except you. Likely, that ancestry stopped two hundred years ago and is not relevant or impressive.
Try the haggis. It’s actually very good.
If you’re going to wear a kilt as a tourist, please look up the appropriate way to wear one. They’re generally not worn except for special occasions or for a professional sports match.
Most places, including cabs, buses and trains, all take Apple / Google Pay. When you’re dining at a restaurant, it’s not rude to ask for the bill. They’ll bring the card machine to you. The restaurant will never physically touch your card or phone to pay. A 10-15% tip is generous.
The tap water in Scotland is delicious and healthy. If you go to England after Scotland, try their tap water (it’s horrendous, but still safe).
If you go north in the summer, beware of midges. They’re related to mosquitos, and some people say they can’t ‘sting’ you or make you itch, but that is nonsense. They’re just like mosquitos, just smaller in size but larger in numbers.
Talk to the locals!
They love it. They’re always down for a blether - especially the cabbies. They’re extremely friendly and love to share their country with you (if you’re respectful). Ask them for their favorite things to do, see and eat.
Any other questions not covered, pop them in the chat below! :)
* I have not checked this with actual weather data. This is just from residential experience.
**These are all generalisations. You can find a bit of everything in all places.